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La Souteronne 2012–Hervé Souhaut

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One of my favorite wine farmers, Hervé Souhaut in the Ardèche, seems to consistently have beautiful wine.  I have not had La Souteronne for a couple of years and I was psyched. From the first swirl and sniff I was enchanted and happy…wonderful aromas.  The nose is vibrant–animal, mineral, vegetable and dark fruit. It sings terroir. The color is a soft cloudy garnet.

And the palate is bright, high-toned, hard dark cherry candy with a bit of a zip, maybe some perlant. Then some earth and twigs do a little dance and wet rocks add another dimension. The acidity is not overbearing but balances things nicely.  A lacy branchy texture gently surrounds it all. With some air something floral is evident, perhaps rose petals.  A nice little roughness toward the back of the mouth gives it a bit of seriousness, but this is a pure pleasure wine. It has a dynamic nature, changing and evolving moment to moment.

The gamay grapes for this wine come from 60-80 year old vines planted on schist, whole cluster fermentation, raised in used barrels which Hervé gets from Dard and Ribo. This wine is unfiltered.  It is a multi-dimensional snapshot of the Ardèche in a bottle.

The occasion for consuming this bottle was Halloween brunch at an East Village restaurant, GG’s.  The food was a magnificent pizza. Three cheeses, garlic, oregano and ricotta on top. Crumbled house-made morcilla topped the ricotta. The pairing of the wine and pizza was memorable….the cheese, sausage,  crust and wine…aaaahh! Next time though, I just want a bowl of crumbled morcilla with this wine!!

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Andrew Krell is the epicurean youthful elder on our team. Not only does he know pretty much everyone related to natural wine in Paris (places included), but he often drinks wines we never heard of in downtown N.Y.C. where he resides. Music is wine, wine is music and it influences how he experiences what he drinks: based on emotions, taste, guitar riffs and melodies. We love him for that and for many other things too ;)

2 Comments

  1. Jean-Hugues says

    GREAT REVIEW ANDREW! Hervé does wonderful wines! It is one of my favorite winemaker out there, ONE OF THE MOST TALENTED ONES.!

  2. Andrew Krell says

    Thanks Jean!! He is always one of my favorites, dynamic terroir wines!

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